Yes I have been looking into some options for bigger calipers and larger truly vented rotors. Doug from the Jaguar Forums gave me this referral,
http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk/
and I have sent them an email and awaiting a reply. Doug said he purchased their AP Racing larger 4 piston calipers with vented rotors. That looks like it might be a decent setup. I have been searching to see if anyone has done a 6 piston conversion but have yet to find that? so if that is not an option the larger AP Racing setup might be my next upgrade. I have other street high performance cars so I am familiar with using a more street friendly pad setup. I think if the rotors were vented and with larger calipers/pads the Jaguar should be able to just barely handle that level of abuse. I have done drives like that with my other Z cars with no problems but they have much larger rotors which are vented and more racing calipers with street pads but the other advantage is those cars can downshift and use the gearing to limit the reliance on the brakes compared to my Jaguar which is an automatic.
Glynn, so while the different types of fluids only have some increases based on the type, are there any brands or type you think are better to use? I saw this review https://www.caroutfitter.com/best-brake-fluid-reviews/
and they list a Motul 8060HL RBF600 Factory Line Racing brake fluid that claims a boiling point of 594 degrees or 312 Celsius ? I know the brake fluid will not solve my issue until I upgrade the calipers/rotors but this might be good to use right now and when I upgrade as it seems like that is higher than the chart you posted, any thoughts?
thanks in advance
Too bad I did not have a gopro camera as I think when you see how fast the big 3.8s Jag was able to go thru those mountains keeping up with much more serious cars is not bad for a car that is really more of a cruiser What I can say is with the current brake setup I have of the smaller Wilwood upgrade and larger rear later model Jaguar in board brakes and with 400+ HP the Jaguar can handle pretty darn good and go decently fast for about an hour or so then you will start to smell the brakes and another hour more and then it will be maxed out and fade... so for short racing the 3.8s can hold its own well and hopefully if I can get the larger brakes it can stay at that pace...
Brake fluid
Re: Brake fluid
1963 Jaguar 3.8s - LS1 all aluminum V8 400+ HP
- Glyn Ruck
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Re: Brake fluid
Caroutfitter is not capable of testing anything & I would take their comments with a pinch of salt. They get paid for linking advertising to Amazon and get a commission on purchases made through their links.
As I said "Latest DOT 4 LV class 6 brake fluids can achieve slightly over 300C dry. (Super DOT 4)" The Motul product is a good example & you can give it a try. Motul is a reputable manufacturer.
I think from memory that the Eagle Speedster (E Type) uses AP Racing vented discs & calipers all round. It has lighter weight in it's favour. You might have to think seriously about fitting some ducting to the car to get cold air to the brakes. Some F1 style pods underslung on the front wheels would work. The rear is more of a challenge. Some flat ducting from ahead of the rear wheels at the skirt might work. There will be a high pressure spot on that sill somewhere but it will be trial & error.
Another alternative for the front would be to duct cold air from dummy horn grills where European cars have their fog lights mounted. It would require cutting holes in the mounting dishes but you are more than capable of doing that.
As I said "Latest DOT 4 LV class 6 brake fluids can achieve slightly over 300C dry. (Super DOT 4)" The Motul product is a good example & you can give it a try. Motul is a reputable manufacturer.
I think from memory that the Eagle Speedster (E Type) uses AP Racing vented discs & calipers all round. It has lighter weight in it's favour. You might have to think seriously about fitting some ducting to the car to get cold air to the brakes. Some F1 style pods underslung on the front wheels would work. The rear is more of a challenge. Some flat ducting from ahead of the rear wheels at the skirt might work. There will be a high pressure spot on that sill somewhere but it will be trial & error.
Another alternative for the front would be to duct cold air from dummy horn grills where European cars have their fog lights mounted. It would require cutting holes in the mounting dishes but you are more than capable of doing that.
1965 Jaguar 3.8 S Type, Sync4, OD, PAS, BRG/Biscuit on chrome wires.
http://www.jagstyperegister.com/forum_n ... ?f=3&t=152
A1B56966DN
http://www.jagstyperegister.com/forum_n ... ?f=3&t=152
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