THE INTERNATIONAL JAGUAR 'S'-TYPE REGISTER FORUM

What Rob said. It stops a lot more water than Mk2 type whisker strip.

My doors are full of Tectyl.

The important things to do are to keep the drain holes clear in the base of the doors & as Rob stays ~ Let the doors breath. Park the car outdoors on a sunny day to dry everything out.

Some of the fanatics here have dehumidifiers in their garages. This can have a negative effect on leather unless you feed it from time to time.

I don't think any seal would stop all the water getting down into the door so there are a couple of things you can do to help.

First don't take the car out in the rain. Not practical for me as it could rain on a wedding day.

Secondly buy an aerosol can of waxoyl and an aerosol can of hammerite underseal paint. Strip the door down by taking everything off it including the glass and then give the inside of the door around the bottom a good wire brushing to clear any rust and old paint off. Vacuum all the dris out and make sure the drain holes (there are two per door) are clear. Spray paint the inside of the door with the underseal and let it dry. Now spray the inside of the door with the Waxoyl.

Finally make sure those drain holes are still clear and check them as a routine at every service.

The worst thing you can do if your car does get wet is lock it away in a garage or put a car cover over the top of a wet car. If you can leave the car outside but under a carport until it dries this is a lot better as the circulating air will dry the inside of the doors and sills for that matter.

When you have the door stripped down also check the inside of the door skin. There is a sound anti drumming pad that is stuck to the inside of the rear door skins just where the chrome window section finishes. Water can run down this chrome section and the water soaks into the sound anti drumming pad. Over time the water held in this pad rusts the door skin from the inside to out. Treat this area as above with the underseal paint and waxoyl. Below is a picture of a door that has been poorly repaired by cutting out the rust and having a square patch welded in but it shows you where to look for the rust on the inside of the door skin. This is not how to repair the damage as this just warps the door skin. The dark area is where the door skin had warped due to the heat of the welded patch.
[attachment=0]DSCF6702.jpg[/attachment]

Great information - thank you Gentlemen. This is a job I will have to tackle sometime. My driver's side seal is more than 50% gone. On one door I tried a dodgy hack with some black silicone caulking to rebuild one of my seal straps. It almost works, keeping most water out. It could be made to look a little smoother and I think I can make it seal better. Pictures attached. [attachment=1]IMG_20211012_163004.jpg[/attachment][attachment=0]IMG_20211012_163150.jpg[/attachment]
I presume that the purpose of the strip is to stop rainwater from running down inside the door, but I wonder how effective even new ones are at that. Thoughts?

[b]Part Number for Whisker Strip. Only use this number as there are some strange substitutes.[/b]


[b][size=150]BD20010/1[/size][/b]


[b]Because it was used on many cars it is yet another omission from the S type Parts Manual ~ "Door glass waist seal - On some vehicles this seal is used as an inner seal, and on others it is used as an outer seal." The only place you will find it listed is in the Mk2 Parts Manual as an outer door seal. The Mk2 used this whisker strip as an inner & outer seal pre the neoprene wiper as fitted to the S type. The number above is the original P/N ~ The quality of my inner seals from Barratts was excellent so I would have no fears as long as you order under the above number. I was running the S type filter on the Barratts site which is why I could not find the P/N that I ordered under which is as above. That is why the number was "dead"

I would do the NDV/Quarterlight seals at the same time. David when discussing the outer rubber seal with Barratts send them a copy of my profile snipping picture. It is good stuff.
Regards,
Glyn[/b]

Thanks guys! I knew you would come through!
I appreciate the tips and part numbers.
SNG Barratt offers a couple of different aftermarket reproductions of the seal. As repro stuff is dodgy these days I’ll call them on Monday and see if they can tell me any differences.
Glyn, I can’t read the SNG part no for the “whisker strip”, can you send it? Also the Jaguar Part no. please as I couldn’t identify it in the Parts Manual.
Also, since I’'ll have the doors apart, I might as well do the quarterlight seals
Cheers
David

Ah! pleased we are in agreement. I think we are both attention to detail freaks LOL. If it's worth doing it may as well be done correctly. :D

That is the one I used Glyn. It has a metal edge into which the brush is fixed and it is this metal edge which goes under the metal clips not as I thought at first a rubber strip. Easy to cut to length using tin snips or wire cutters.

Here is the correct inner whisker strip. Will need trimming to length from 20". The old precut & correct sets of 4 seem no longer available. Only order as BD20010/1



[attachment=0]Inner whisker strip..JPG[/attachment]

No problem at all. I just wanted to avert a problem we had even after trying to bunch up the rubber. Fortunately I had plenty of stripping. Agree the groove should be spotless that you pull the tongue into. Mine was newly re-chromed. Once all was settled & trimmed I put a drop of super glue at each end of the channel so that the rubber was going nowhere.

Thanks Glyn I forgot to mention the stretched rubber bit before cutting. I feed mine into the groove and then bunched it up as much as I could so it was no longer stretched, Ie I pushed it into the groove rather than pulled it, but still waited until it had settled down before I cut it to length. I would also clean out the groove the rubber strip has to go into with some wire wool to get it clean then lots of soapy water to slide the rubber in to the groove.