Engine removal
-
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2017 11:28 am
- Location: Gig Harbor, WA USA
- Contact:
Engine removal
Any words of advice before I embark on the engine removal process? I plan on using the steps as described in the Jag 3.8s shop manual. I have read removal from underneath vs. through the bonnet is easier.
Mark Underwood
Gig Harbor, WA
USA
1965 3.8s
1997 XJR
1930 Ford model A
1954 Chevy Sedan Delivery
Gig Harbor, WA
USA
1965 3.8s
1997 XJR
1930 Ford model A
1954 Chevy Sedan Delivery
Re: Engine removal
Hi Mark and welcome to the forum.
Six of one and half a dozen of the other I would say regarding the removal of the engine either up or down. It depends on the room you have and equipment you are using. If you have a two post lift and can lift the body up off the engine and subframe I would go for out the bottom. If you are in a workshop with a floor and just an engine hoist then out of the top. All the same things need to be detached which include removing the radiator and cowling. (bitch of a job. Just no room to get the cowling past the radiator and fan. When you do it and remove the radiator protect the back of the radiator with a piece of cardboard.) Gearbox comes out with the engine either way. Steering needs to be disconnected at the U/J. Just four bolts hold the front subframe to the chassis so very easy to drop out. The engine is connected to the chassis not the subframe so by dropping the subframe the engine remains in place which I only thought about after the case.
If you are going out the top remove the front grill and take the fan off the front of the engine as this gives you more room to slide the engine forward.
Out the top and you can leave the carbs on out the bottom and I think they will go but its very tight. The engines in Factory were put in from underneath as can be seen on this You Tube clip of them assembling the Mk2 Jaguars in 1961. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKJPFRNO344 but although it does not show it the Mk2 might have the engine mounted on the subframe rather than the chassis.
If you come across a quiery you need answering please post and I will try and answer it from memory or post some photos.
Six of one and half a dozen of the other I would say regarding the removal of the engine either up or down. It depends on the room you have and equipment you are using. If you have a two post lift and can lift the body up off the engine and subframe I would go for out the bottom. If you are in a workshop with a floor and just an engine hoist then out of the top. All the same things need to be detached which include removing the radiator and cowling. (bitch of a job. Just no room to get the cowling past the radiator and fan. When you do it and remove the radiator protect the back of the radiator with a piece of cardboard.) Gearbox comes out with the engine either way. Steering needs to be disconnected at the U/J. Just four bolts hold the front subframe to the chassis so very easy to drop out. The engine is connected to the chassis not the subframe so by dropping the subframe the engine remains in place which I only thought about after the case.
If you are going out the top remove the front grill and take the fan off the front of the engine as this gives you more room to slide the engine forward.
Out the top and you can leave the carbs on out the bottom and I think they will go but its very tight. The engines in Factory were put in from underneath as can be seen on this You Tube clip of them assembling the Mk2 Jaguars in 1961. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKJPFRNO344 but although it does not show it the Mk2 might have the engine mounted on the subframe rather than the chassis.
If you come across a quiery you need answering please post and I will try and answer it from memory or post some photos.
- Attachments
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- Engine out.
- Engine out.jpg (236.97 KiB) Viewed 3248 times
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- Engine going in from the top.
- DSCF7617.JPG (5.84 MiB) Viewed 3249 times
Rob.C. P1B8973BW
1968 S Type 3.4 Auto. Old English White.
1993 Yamaha FJ1200 Yellow
1966 Ford Anglia 1760 cross flow (still being built)
2012 Old English sheep dog. Grey and white.
http://torbayweddingcarclub.co.uk/?page_id=57
1968 S Type 3.4 Auto. Old English White.
1993 Yamaha FJ1200 Yellow
1966 Ford Anglia 1760 cross flow (still being built)
2012 Old English sheep dog. Grey and white.
http://torbayweddingcarclub.co.uk/?page_id=57
- David Reilly
- Posts: 184
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2017 8:02 pm
- Location: Wagener, SC USA
- Contact:
Re: Engine removal
Mark,
Thank you interest in The International Jaguar ‘S’-type Register, and CONGRATULATIONS on having an ‘S’-type.
To complete the register of your ‘S’-type, please complete the Registration Form on the website or reply by email to jagstype@gmail.com with:
Chassis number
Engine number
Body number
Gearbox number
Original colors (exterior/interior)
Wheels (wire/disk)
Factory options
Build date, First owner, etc.
A couple of photos and a brief note on how/why you found your beloved ‘S’-type, how you use it, or what you have done with it or to it.
Cheers,
David
Thank you interest in The International Jaguar ‘S’-type Register, and CONGRATULATIONS on having an ‘S’-type.
To complete the register of your ‘S’-type, please complete the Registration Form on the website or reply by email to jagstype@gmail.com with:
Chassis number
Engine number
Body number
Gearbox number
Original colors (exterior/interior)
Wheels (wire/disk)
Factory options
Build date, First owner, etc.
A couple of photos and a brief note on how/why you found your beloved ‘S’-type, how you use it, or what you have done with it or to it.
Cheers,
David
-
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2017 11:28 am
- Location: Gig Harbor, WA USA
- Contact:
Re: Engine removal
Hello
Thank you for your words of advice. I would suspect a 2 ton engine hoist would be sufficient? I see from the pictures you used a leveling device at the point of attachment to the engine. Once the engine is removed I intend to have a local shop do the rebuild while I continue to work on the body and interior. To date this has been a rewarding project albeit taking longer than I suspected!!
Thank you for your words of advice. I would suspect a 2 ton engine hoist would be sufficient? I see from the pictures you used a leveling device at the point of attachment to the engine. Once the engine is removed I intend to have a local shop do the rebuild while I continue to work on the body and interior. To date this has been a rewarding project albeit taking longer than I suspected!!
Mark Underwood
Gig Harbor, WA
USA
1965 3.8s
1997 XJR
1930 Ford model A
1954 Chevy Sedan Delivery
Gig Harbor, WA
USA
1965 3.8s
1997 XJR
1930 Ford model A
1954 Chevy Sedan Delivery
Re: Engine removal
They all take longer than expected. Mine took 16 months from purchase to finish in 7 different workshops. Strip down, blasters, bodywork, paint, assembly rebuild, interior and finish. Plus 2 more workshops if you add the engine and gearbox rebuilds.
I once wrote and article for the news letter where I said for time "Set a time line for work to be done by but don’t set an end date or you will get very disappointed. If you set a target date and it does not happen, chances are you will get despondent, the project will grind to a halt and not get finished. Time is like the budget. Think of a date in the future for when you want it finished and then add a year or two."
For the budget I said "Set a budget, then double it and add a £500 contingency just in case."
You will need the levelling device as the engine comes out with the gearbox. You basically need to take it out vertically. You also need to check that with the levelling device fitted you can get the engine high enough to get over the front of the car without scratching the paint. Mine was tight with the wheels on the ground.
I once wrote and article for the news letter where I said for time "Set a time line for work to be done by but don’t set an end date or you will get very disappointed. If you set a target date and it does not happen, chances are you will get despondent, the project will grind to a halt and not get finished. Time is like the budget. Think of a date in the future for when you want it finished and then add a year or two."
For the budget I said "Set a budget, then double it and add a £500 contingency just in case."
You will need the levelling device as the engine comes out with the gearbox. You basically need to take it out vertically. You also need to check that with the levelling device fitted you can get the engine high enough to get over the front of the car without scratching the paint. Mine was tight with the wheels on the ground.
Rob.C. P1B8973BW
1968 S Type 3.4 Auto. Old English White.
1993 Yamaha FJ1200 Yellow
1966 Ford Anglia 1760 cross flow (still being built)
2012 Old English sheep dog. Grey and white.
http://torbayweddingcarclub.co.uk/?page_id=57
1968 S Type 3.4 Auto. Old English White.
1993 Yamaha FJ1200 Yellow
1966 Ford Anglia 1760 cross flow (still being built)
2012 Old English sheep dog. Grey and white.
http://torbayweddingcarclub.co.uk/?page_id=57
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