THE INTERNATIONAL JAGUAR 'S'-TYPE REGISTER FORUM

Joe I took mine to pieces, cleaned everything. Replaced all the rubber bushes and bearings in the hubs. Painted all the metal parts and cleaned all the old grease out of the hubs. Replaced the brake pads after stripping the calipers and cleaning them. I then reassembled the whole lot using all the original parts I could.
If it's not broke why replace it.

With ite IRS I took it all to bits cleaned and painted all the large stuff same as Cass. How much you have to do is really determined by what is knackered, in my case I had to replace:

U/J's in half shafts
Springs & shocks
All bearings and oil seals
Lower frame plate
Brake pistons & seals, discs, hand brake components and all pads
Remote brake bleed pipes
Frame mounts & radius arm bushes
Diff (LSD) rebuilt by Alan at AJS Engineering
And a few bits and pieces I've forgotten about.

This was the second rebuild of the IRS, the first was back in 1978 just a couple of years after I got it. It's not a five minute job by any means.

Well, attacked the rear suspension using the Service Manual and starting with the UJ disassembly. Left the Hub in tack for now. Tomorrow we will remove the brake calipers and the disc. Clean, power wash, and then assess what parts we will need. Already did the springs three years ago and they are already powder coated. New Gaz shocks are here. We noticed one parking brake pad disconnected and the parking brake tabs not in the their respective holes. Nothing broke. Here are some pics.
Thanks....advice always welcomed....

A couple more pics......

Two things Joe,
The pins on the parking brakes do bend. I found one of mine to be banana shaped when I took it out. I straightened mine but in hindsight should have bought new ones.
Secondly splitting the rear hub from the shaft was not an easy job. I had mine on a bench hitting the end with a hammer and it did not move. I took it to a friends garage who had a twenty tonne press and this finally got the shaft out. Very tight. Not corroded just tight. Also on the outer bearing I found that to remove the inner ring that the bearing sits up against I could not get anything behind the ring to pull it off. See the photo. There is a dust or grease cover which prevents you using a standard puller behind the ring. The only way I could remove this ring was to cut it with a 1mm cutting disc in an angle grinder being very careful not to go too far and damage the spindle. When pressing this ring back on do not push it so far in which will then allow you to tighten it up correctly with the hub nut.

Rob,
I plan to replace the parking brake pins and pad. Will inspect the caliper to see if that needs rebuilt. Do you rebuild your calipers? My brakes worked fine before take down except for the parking brake. Things may change later, but at this time I do not plan to take the hub apart.

My car had been standing for 10 years so I felt the brake calipers needed stripping just to check that the pistons were free. I split the calipers and removed the pistons cleaned them all and put in new piston seals. My pistons were fine so I reused these but changed the seals. Silly, when you have them out and understanding the amount of work required to remove them when on the car, not to do it when you have the subframe stripped down.

OK guys.....how do you remove the radius arm from the hub....I know....very carefully....but seriously.....how? Have everything taken down except the radius arm. The brake pads are brand new and the calipers look like they were recently rebuilt. One parking brake pad needs re-seated. Not taking the differential down except for the output seal. Hubs and UJ's look good also, so planning to leave them alone. Wishbones will be sorted and all will be cleaned up and painted. New bushes, bearings, and seals. Thanks....

Not sure what you mean Joe as the Radius arm is attached to the lower wishbone not the Hub. You have to remove the shock absorber as the bolt will not come out with the shock in place but it is not attached to the Hub.

I'm sorry.....lower wishbone. Shocks and springs are out. Nut holding the radius arm is off. Radius arm bolt is flush seated in the wishbone.