THE INTERNATIONAL JAGUAR 'S'-TYPE REGISTER FORUM

Unpainted brass radiator tanks disperse less heat, so that might be problematic especially in these cars especially in warm climates.

But when you open the bonnet they look so much better then when it is painted black.

cass3958 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 05, 2019 11:04 pm But when you open the bonnet they look so much better then when it is painted black.

As they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. To me I would do anything to get it as close as possible to when it left the factory.

I think you will get on well with Glyn but as we have discussed so many times on the forum there is no definitive description of an S Type Jaguar as it left the factory. Due to strikes, parts changes, upgrades and so on nearly every year the S Type was different.

I agree with you and again I don't see anything wrong with modifications as long as they please the owner. It is just my personal taste and persue. I would not change anything from the way it was built. I dont believe in improvements of my own. Except on exceptional cases I mean where parts are no longer available for example. And this brings us to the "What is a Classic" issue. Yes I agree with you Glyn's got it really well researched and
I simply love that.

Still working hard on the windows. They will soon be all done. Remaining: wing window latches, door rubbers, and final adjustments. Rear wing window rubber was the worst, but final fitting went well.

Here are some random questions:

In what order did you install the wood, front window, and interior. We were thinking to have the interior done first so the parcel shelf, glove box sides, and center console would be somewhat finished so we could add the wood, radio, and heater. Finally, we would install the front windshield. Are we on track???????????????????

What is the Valve (vacuum operated) controlling water supply to heater (part 39, plate 4, page 19 in manual)? Do I need this? Looked at our before photos and I did not have one. It looks like I had one at one time, but someone removed it and put a rubber hose in its place in line with the heater pipes.

Lastly, what is the pipe above the rubber hose and clamp in the photo coming up vertically and where does the other end connect? Asking for a friend.

Joe,
We did the roof lining first as ideally it needs to be in before fitting front or rear screens. It's a pain & you need easy access to the car.

We then did the Dynamat on the floor etc & vinyl patching around front screen etc so you don't see bodywork in gaps. You need to hold back on underfelt & carpeting until you finish any dirty work & wiring.

We then did all the powder coating of frames & major upholstery work but did not fit.

Then sealed up the doors & fitted door cards after fitting vinyl patching required under the cards at map pockets etc..

Then underfelt/carpeting followed by seats apart from one front seat. Console & parcel shelf should be fitted as one piece once front kick panels are finished. Then fit the last front seat. Make sure all O/D wiring, inhibitor switch & reverse light switch are operating & gear change properly adjusted before fitting tunnel cover.

We left the easily damaged woodwork to last starting with door caps & surrounds & windscreen surrounds next. Dash wood last for access to wiring, speedo cables etc. Remember to fit all chrome attachment pieces for wood.

Top of dash was fitted as last of woodwork. We then fitted sunvisors.

Fit door rubbers last as you need access to wood attachment screws & for treadplate attachment.


The vacuum operated water flow valve to the heater is required or the heater will be on all of the time. They are difficult to find in good working order but there are alternatives that will do the job

The vertical pipe is the vacuum pick up from the manifold & is connected to the brake booster.

Sure I have forgotten something LOL ~ good luck!

Glyn,

Thanks for the fast and totally complete response. I guess we will try to find the vacuum operated water flow valve. I will save my comments on your list until I can discuss with my team.

Thanks so much,

No problem Joe.

The reason it is important to get the headlining in before the front & rear screens is that the lining needs to be glued into the rebate under the screen rubbers or you end up with a mess like this.

I concur with everything Glyn just said.
Leave the seats out until the headlining and dash are all in place and all the wiring is competed. Just gives you room to move around.
Leave the front and rear screen out until you fit the headlining. If the headlining is on the fibre board it has to go through the front or rear screen aperture.
I think I put the front screen in before I put the dash top on as you need access to the bottom of the screen from inside the cab to fit it. The dash top will go in with the front screen in place but it is tight and you might have to do it with the steering wheel off.
As an extra when fitting both screen rubbers back and front I would use a rubber sealer inside the rubber seal as you put it on. Might be messy but it can be cleaned off. I have found my front screen rubber is leaking recently, some people don't take their car out in the rain if they can help it but I do not have a choice sometimes with weddings. Water leaked down behind the dash and shorted my horns. Very embarrassing with the bride and her father in the back on a rainy day and the horns went off. I had to pull over and disconnect the wires from the horns to stop them.

Fitting the wod and the chrome was taking one step forward and two steps back for me. There are bits that need to go in first because of where the fixings are placed. Nothing will break if its put in in the wrong sequence it is just frustrating that it might have to be removed again to get the next piece in.