Engine removal

Engine, Transmissions, Drive train, & Lubrications.
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NigelW
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Re: Engine removal

Post by NigelW »

I've always removed the engines of S Types and Mk2's from underneath. OK the carbs have to come off but if you're rebuilding the engine they will anyway.
1964 Jaguar 3.8 S Type 1B50442BW (since 1976)
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cass3958
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Re: Engine removal

Post by cass3958 »

I agree Nigel but taking the carbs off when the engine is on the bench is so much easier than when the engine is still in the engine bay.
I think there is no right or wrong. Either way is possible it just depends on the equipment you have to hand to lift it out or drop it down.
Rob.C. P1B8973BW
1968 S Type 3.4 Auto. Old English White.
1993 Yamaha FJ1200 Yellow
1966 Ford Anglia 1760 cross flow (still being built)
2012 Old English sheep dog. Grey and white.
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JCS
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Re: Engine removal

Post by JCS »

Charlie
I think you will find that top or bottom removal methods are dictated by the equipment you have, most professionals will have post lifts and chain blocks and therefore height above the lift. With that equipment a BOTTOM removal is easy and quick as John Quilter found when observing the results of his mechanic.

With height but no post lift I think the go-to method is out of the TOP. That is based on the assumption an owner is using a restricted garage with a mobile hydraulic lift. You may find it advantageous to raise the rear end of the car to provide more clearance for the gearbox tail shaft and the engine sump over the bonnet latching panel.

In my case I have a four post lift a travelling jack on the lift and overhead chain lifts besides independent jacks. The underside of my overhead beam is 120 inch above the lift platform and I Iose 12 to 14 inches after hanging on a chain lift. Assessing a top out operation with these measurements you might just be required to ease the gear box tail over the front end of the car. I could fairly easily lift out top or bottom, but my choice with my equipment is definitely out of the BOTTOM. If you have the luxury of an overhead chain lift it will avoid struggling with an over balanced mobile crane, perhaps on uneven ground and you will not have to endure fouling of the support legs.

Assuming you are removing the engine for major work, I would always suggest removing the radiator, fan and carburettors before engine removal and replacing them after the engine is relocated. In addition always plug all openings without fail, even during engine removal and rebuild. Believe me that advice is offered after getting involved professionally with some disasters.

In the case of carburettor removal, the bonnet will have been removed when completing either top or bottom lifts, this improves access. Although it may not look to be the case I find it quite easy to remove the rear carburettor first before the front carburettor. To ease that situation I fitted long reach bronze nuts to the carburettor and exhaust manifold flanges, long ago.

Finally as an aside, I personally would not remove one of these engines and gearboxes using a two post lift, where a major unbalance will occur when the engine and gearbox is removed. Just personal choice.
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cass3958
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Re: Engine removal

Post by cass3958 »

A lot of valid and safety points there Norman. The thought of an over balancing engine hoist is why when I replaced my engine I jacked the engine up and then wheeled the chassis underneath it. In this case I did not have to move the engine hoist apart from up and down. A lot safer this way but you need the room to be able to do it in both height and length.
Rob.C. P1B8973BW
1968 S Type 3.4 Auto. Old English White.
1993 Yamaha FJ1200 Yellow
1966 Ford Anglia 1760 cross flow (still being built)
2012 Old English sheep dog. Grey and white.
http://torbayweddingcarclub.co.uk/?page_id=57
CharlieM3.8S
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Re: Engine removal

Post by CharlieM3.8S »

One more question Folks. I've been removing all that needs to be removed on my '66 3.8S to get it ready for engine removal this next week. I've chosen to take the unit out from the top, and I would like to know if the cross-shaft for the throttle control needs to come out too? That's the shaft that bridges the two foot-wells as shown on this fine photo I borrowed and marked up. I hope it doesn't need to come out because frankly, I haven't figured out how to do it yet! It looks like the shaft was suspended and the car built around it!! :D
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cass3958
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Re: Engine removal

Post by cass3958 »

Mine is RHD BW35 (cable operated kickdown) so I did not have the cross piece but a friend of mine has a RHD with the DG250 box which has the cross piece to operate the kickdown. He removed his engine without removing the cross piece for the throttles but be careful it does not foul the gearbox when lifting it out and lowering it back in place as I do not think you would want to bend the rod.
Rob.C. P1B8973BW
1968 S Type 3.4 Auto. Old English White.
1993 Yamaha FJ1200 Yellow
1966 Ford Anglia 1760 cross flow (still being built)
2012 Old English sheep dog. Grey and white.
http://torbayweddingcarclub.co.uk/?page_id=57
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Glyn Ruck
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Re: Engine removal

Post by Glyn Ruck »

Accelerator RHD Auto.JPG
Accelerator RHD Auto.JPG (60.07 KiB) Viewed 1774 times
1965 Jaguar 3.8 S Type, Sync4, OD, PAS, BRG/Biscuit on chrome wires.
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