THE INTERNATIONAL JAGUAR 'S'-TYPE REGISTER FORUM

The green only wire goes to fuse no 3. There are likely take off points along the way. That is the way Jaguar worked.

(remember your car has been restored & there might be a few mess ups in the wiring. When I restored my car we replaced every wiring harness & wire & all wiring is correct to the diagram.

Here is a hi res wiring diagram. Blow it up, have it laminated & stick it on your garage wall. Makes life a lot easier.

On my switch the brown ring with ears appears to be made of fiber, so it is the resistor type. In looking at the past threads about the shift nacelle lamps, it appears my resistor has built up over time and they bypassed it by running the nacelle light (black/red) off of the red/black feed. But what does the green wire go to? It appears to be related to the transmission. I'm guessing it was also moved to bypass the resistor (even though it is just on the other "ear" of the resistor).

It's a dropper resistor. The subject has been previously discussed here. http://www.jagstyperegister.com/forum_n ... r&start=20



Early switch.

I don't have a switch at hand but just to explain you photo. is the copper colored ring with the two ears a fiber insulator or a metal conductor? If a conductor, the 11 O'clock and 3 O'clock positions are going to always be connected.

Hello Everyone,
I need some help in figuring out the wiring for my 1965 3.8 S (the Wayne Carini car). In checking out a burned out foglamp, the foglamp wiring behind the dash and under the hood began smoking badly and the ammeter went to a full discharge indication. I stopped everything in time, but the foglamp wire is pretty much shot.
I've decided the safest option is to ditch the foglamps completely, I am trading with a friend who is restoring another S type and wants foglamps my old foglamps and the four position switch in return for his chrome grills and three position switch.
However, in beginning the conversion last night, I noticed my wiring to the switch is completely different than how it shows in the schematic. If I'm reading the schematic right, the black/red wire shouldn't even be doubled up on the red/black wire and moved to where the green wire is presently. The green wire should be where there is a missing connection screw at the 11 o'clock position. What the heck is going on here?