THE INTERNATIONAL JAGUAR 'S'-TYPE REGISTER FORUM

Mine is RHD BW35 (cable operated kickdown) so I did not have the cross piece but a friend of mine has a RHD with the DG250 box which has the cross piece to operate the kickdown. He removed his engine without removing the cross piece for the throttles but be careful it does not foul the gearbox when lifting it out and lowering it back in place as I do not think you would want to bend the rod.

One more question Folks. I've been removing all that needs to be removed on my '66 3.8S to get it ready for engine removal this next week. I've chosen to take the unit out from the top, and I would like to know if the cross-shaft for the throttle control needs to come out too? That's the shaft that bridges the two foot-wells as shown on this fine photo I borrowed and marked up. I hope it doesn't need to come out because frankly, I haven't figured out how to do it yet! It looks like the shaft was suspended and the car built around it!!

A lot of valid and safety points there Norman. The thought of an over balancing engine hoist is why when I replaced my engine I jacked the engine up and then wheeled the chassis underneath it. In this case I did not have to move the engine hoist apart from up and down. A lot safer this way but you need the room to be able to do it in both height and length.

Charlie
I think you will find that top or bottom removal methods are dictated by the equipment you have, most professionals will have post lifts and chain blocks and therefore height above the lift. With that equipment a BOTTOM removal is easy and quick as John Quilter found when observing the results of his mechanic.

With height but no post lift I think the go-to method is out of the TOP. That is based on the assumption an owner is using a restricted garage with a mobile hydraulic lift. You may find it advantageous to raise the rear end of the car to provide more clearance for the gearbox tail shaft and the engine sump over the bonnet latching panel.

In my case I have a four post lift a travelling jack on the lift and overhead chain lifts besides independent jacks. The underside of my overhead beam is 120 inch above the lift platform and I Iose 12 to 14 inches after hanging on a chain lift. Assessing a top out operation with these measurements you might just be required to ease the gear box tail over the front end of the car. I could fairly easily lift out top or bottom, but my choice with my equipment is definitely out of the BOTTOM. If you have the luxury of an overhead chain lift it will avoid struggling with an over balanced mobile crane, perhaps on uneven ground and you will not have to endure fouling of the support legs.

Assuming you are removing the engine for major work, I would always suggest removing the radiator, fan and carburettors before engine removal and replacing them after the engine is relocated. In addition always plug all openings without fail, even during engine removal and rebuild. Believe me that advice is offered after getting involved professionally with some disasters.

In the case of carburettor removal, the bonnet will have been removed when completing either top or bottom lifts, this improves access. Although it may not look to be the case I find it quite easy to remove the rear carburettor first before the front carburettor. To ease that situation I fitted long reach bronze nuts to the carburettor and exhaust manifold flanges, long ago.

Finally as an aside, I personally would not remove one of these engines and gearboxes using a two post lift, where a major unbalance will occur when the engine and gearbox is removed. Just personal choice.

I agree Nigel but taking the carbs off when the engine is on the bench is so much easier than when the engine is still in the engine bay.
I think there is no right or wrong. Either way is possible it just depends on the equipment you have to hand to lift it out or drop it down.

I've always removed the engines of S Types and Mk2's from underneath. OK the carbs have to come off but if you're rebuilding the engine they will anyway.

We had the choice of going in top or bottom but my rebuilt engine was returned fully built up carbs, manifolds & all. All we removed was the fan (Cass you have the newer nose parts giving you a little more space up front.

Also you need the right lifting equipment for the body. It is very easy to damage a newly repainted & polished body shell. So we decided engine & transmission from the top & rear bridge piece/suspension & front subframe from below. Body unmarked above or below.

During reassembly.

Taking the engine out the bottom is an option but as you said you would have to remove the carbs from one side, the dynamo, PAS pump and exhaust manifold from the other. Problem with this is having taken my carbs off the car with the engine in situ I know how hard that is. You need very slim, long arms that can bend half way along the forearm. It is a bitch of a job with the limited space in the engine bay so I found it easier out of the top with all the ancillaries still attached to the engine. Either way, top or bottom is not an afternoon job for one man in a single garage though.

I recently had a complete engine overhaul done on my 3.8S at a local well regarded British car shop. After much experience, they do not try to remove engines on these cars and Mark IIs from above. They remove the complete front subframe, with wheels and tires attached, roll it out from under the car, and lower the complete power train out the bottom. It requires removal of the carbs as I recall and maybe the generator/PS pump and they tie back the two manifolds attached to the exhaust system. I do not think they even removed the radiator, just the shroud. I was amazed that they had this all done within a day of me dropping off the car. I should have stuck around and watched. Admittedly they have a lift and I think some sort of platform that can be raised to drop the engine onto. Because the engine project was going to take some considerable time and they did not want the car taking up space in their shop, they replaced the subframe, flatted bedded the car back to my garage which gave me the opportunity to fully clean and detail the entire engine bay. Not a concours job but far better than before. The car is now all back together with rebuilt engine, new diaphragm clutch, slave cylinder, updated rear main seal, new water pump, overhauled starter, generator, carbs and, new brake booster (old one was determined to have a small vacuum leak) resealed gearbox/overdrive and and the car is running like new.