THE INTERNATIONAL JAGUAR 'S'-TYPE REGISTER FORUM

A good front brake upgrade are the Coopercraft calipers. I fitted them to my car some years ago, the price has gone up somewhat since then but they are well worth it.

https://www.coopercraft.co.uk/index.php ... ted-front/

The 420 calipers from recollection are not a straight fit as they require 420 uprights as well, I did this to a Mk2 about 30 years ago so memory a bit vague now.

It is our pleasure to impart the knowledge that we have learnt through trial and error in the era before the internet forums. If I am working on the family Jaguar XF I generally look on YouTube for a video showing me what to do before I start.
A common brake upgrade is to fit the twin pot callipers from the 420 as they are a straight bolt on fit but I have not seen a three pot calliper on an S type.
Good luck and if you need anything else let us know.

To cass3958
Can't thank you enough for the work you put into this article. I was trying to understand what was going on and had just sussed that the S-type had become a bit of a hybrid towards to its later life - I also have what looks like XJ6 front calipers - 3 pot to investigate! This is my first foray into Jaguar classics. My last restoration was a Triumph Roadster 20TR 1949
You've helped greatly with the steering box explanation and the detail on the steering column confirms my suspicion that it has to move to allow the disconnection of the upper universal joint. That's my next job. I'm not demounting the steering box - I'm taking the sub-frame down for a de-rust and re-paint.
Thanks again - all the best

johngosnell wrote: ↑Thu Apr 16, 2020 12:27 pm Parts ordered

John
1B1257BW

Picture of required bits.

Thank you Rob. I was fitting without upper column in place yet. No Auto selector to consider & easy access with no removal required. My gaiter ring clamps were perfect & reuseable. Zip ties will do just fine.

I have recently bought myself one of these rechargeable LED lights that is both magnetic or clip on.

It's the most useful thing I've bought in a long time instead of a conventional lead light.

If you were just removing the lower steering column I would say an hour to remove and replace as long as you know what the sequence is. It took me longer as I had to work out what needed removing to get to another part. It can be removed without removing any other parts but that depends on how much you want to get at it. As I was taking the steering box out I had removed the steering linkage but I left the anti roll bar and oil filter in place.
The sequence is.
Disconnect the gear selector arm ball joint on the Auto selector.
Undo the two bolts holding the upper steering column to the dash so it hangs free. I left the nacelle in place and the wiring but my wiring was long enough to allow the steering column to be pulled up far enough out of the way.
Remove the four bolts holding the round plate behind the brake pedal holding the base of the steering column to the bulkhead.
Remove the upper and lower pinch bolts on the lower steering column. You might have to rotate this back and forth to get to the nuts and bolts.
Now make sure that everything is set in the dead ahead position.
Pull the steering wheel and column away from the bulkhead disconnecting the lower steering column from the upper splines.
Pull the lower steering column from the steering box splines and remove it from underneath the engine bay.

Refitting is obviously the reverse making sure that you spread both the splines on the lower steering column to ease sliding them together. Making sure that when you slide the splines on you line up the holes for the pinch bolts correctly.
Make sure everything is in the dead ahead position when reassembling.

Tools required.
I think all the bolts are half inch so you will need,
A half inch socket. Extra long extensions would help and a ratchet.
Half inch open spanner. A stumpy short spanner is a good option just because of the room you have to work in.
I used a set of small mole grips to hold one side of both pinch bolts on the lower steering column because there is no room to get two hands in the space with two spanners.
A decent torch or light source.
A flat ended screwdriver and hammer to open the splines on the lower steering column.
You will need a set of circlip pliers to strip the U/Js, some grease and some cable ties to secure the rubber boot back in place.

If I have forgotten anything I apologies.

From memory just over an hour to replace UJ & fit, grease & reassemble the CV Joint if you are not repainting. UJ replacement is the same as fitting any UJ to it's yolks ~ nothing special. Replacing rollers is removing & reinstalling 2 circlips. Old rollers off, grease, new rollers on & replace circlips. You just need to work methodically. Get all nice & clean. Fit gaiter to shaft early. Liberally grease CV housing, keep grease clean & reassemble.

I'm going to leave estimate of getting the shaft out of the car & refitting to Rob. We were only fitting under ideal conditions during restoration.

how long do you think it will take to do just the lower steering column , replacing U/J and the CV Rollers and re assemble.

Regards John

1B1257BW

Thanks Glyn. I thought the third picture was correct once I had assembled it again as it was just logical to have it this way so the filter was held down securely. It confused me when I looked in the parts book and could not see any mention of the spring.
Another three weeks lockdown here so no chance of testing the PAS without a valid excuse so I might have to pop down to the shops to get the milk in the S Type.

Your bottom picture is how mine is installed with spring. Parts book is lacking.

Your centre picture appears to have the washer/spring seat inverted.